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Looking out the kitchen window, occasionally I spy many men gathered over at Fort St. Nicolas, all standing around inspecting a lone participant as he tosses a silver ball at some place in the middle of their gathered circle. For the longest time, I have watched various communes in and around the south of France with fascination since the game of pétanque or "boule", as it is affectionately called in Marseille, stirs much passion in the south. It is the norm that most villages have a pétanque field near the center of the town square in which many capped elderly men leizurely make a second home, visiting and conversing with others on the benches outlining the lightly-graveled ground...read more.

Pétanque, which can be played with 2, 4 or 6 players, has a long history rooted in a 6th century B.C. game played by the ancient Greeks and Romans at first tossing coins, flat rocks and eventually became the pitching of metal balls in the Middle Ages. It was modified to the current version founded in 1907 at La Ciotat to accomodate Jules Le Noir (Lenoir), whose rhuematism prevented him a pitching run of the metal ball as per the earlier version of the game demanded. He changed the pitch to a stationary throw and reduced the field in half. After this version debuted at a 1910 pétanque tournament at a café in La Ciotat...read more

it became the most popular version. In fact, currently there are over 17 million players in France, not including a worlwide following; Great Britain and the United States being large and active participants in the the annual tournaments. At the World Pétanque Tournament in Marseille this summer (July 5 - 9), there were over 13,000 participants alone. For more on the history, rules and club activities in english, visit www.pentaque.org.

As for finding a place for a leisurely game of boule or Jeu de Boule, a few places come to mind....
Fort St. Nicolas - up the stairs, through and over the bridge, you will find Fort Entrecasteaux, and a club de boules. They post all their scheduled games on the billboard, usually find it a quiet place with beautiful views to practice.
Vieux Port - St. Victor looks down on this field called Carénage, newly renovated place and next to the action on the port. Games happen daily and it is convenient to grab an afterward celebratory drink by popping into any of the numerous local places.
Cathedral La Major - just across from the cathedral on the opposite side facing the Panier, le boulodrome de la Major offers daily games for the more serious players.
Point Rouge - in front of the beach on the promenade, can get windy, but it is very relaxed.

Equipement can be found at the major sport stores like GoSports or Décathlon.
Pétanque13 - 9, cours Lieutaud specializes in your balls, accessories and pétanque clothing.